shogshung – 'Staff of Life' – the main spear which marks the site of mountain worship

shugndot – knotted protection cord given by a lama, which is worn around the neck

shyee – child

sockwa – shoulder blade

sonnam – religious merit

tanthuk – soup of meat and small squares of cooked dough

thanka – religious painting, usually on a silk scroll and depicting the Buddha

thib – small brass cups for filling with water as an altar offering

tolla – three-wheeled tractor-like vehicle, which is sometimes hired along with a Chinese driver, to transport the nomads to the grassland

tranger – prayer beads

tsa tsa – small triangular clay icons, a few inches high, formed from a bronze mould and sun-dried, depicting the Buddha

tsampa – ground barley flour

tsarer – traditional Tibetan dress resembling a large wrap-around cloth coat with woven or leopard-skin trim and embroidered detailing

tsokwa – thick sheepskin tsarer with leopardskin collar, worn especially in winter

tuckpa – soup or rice noodles and meat

tugh – colourful woven hem of tsarer

turnkor – churn

tzorgin – yak/ cow half-breed

yarsa gunba – grass worm – this particular phenomenon is a worm which grows fungus on its head and dies in autumn. The nomads say the worm turns into grass. It is highly prized by the Chinese for its medicinal properties and the nomads collect them in the grassland to sell.

yucka – beautiful

Illustrations

All photographs from the author’s collection. Chapter illustrations by the author.

The family tent

Tsedup mother, Annay Labko

Tsedup father, Amnye Karko

View of Machu from the Wild Yak range

Ama-lo-lun, Azjung (the Sky Man) and Rhanjer’s son, Tinlee

Tsedup’s brother, Cumchok Jamtso seated at the centre of a ceremony

A chorten at Labrang monastery.

Tsedup’s youngest brother, Gorbo

Kate’s num

Kate’s dad and boys from the tribe

View of Jerko’s tent

Nawang, Tsedup and Tsedo’s children – Sanjay, Dickir Che, Ziggy and Kate

Kate, Sirmo and Shermo Donker. Me, Sirmo and Shermo pose for a picture before our trip to town.

Milking a yak

Women from Kate’s tribe

Kate, Chloё and Ells on top of the holy mountain.

Tibetan weaving techniques

Dickir Che and Ziggy

Friend Tseqwar, Tsedup’s brother, Tsedo, friend Wharden, Tsedup’s eldest brother, Rhanjer and younger brother, Gondo

Gondo’s son, Dorlo

Tsering Samdup outside the tiger’s lair at Lhamo

Rhanjer’s son, Samlo

Tsedup in winter tsokwa

Gondo’s wife, Tseten, Gondo, Tamba and friend

Tsedup’s sister, Dombie

Dombie’s son Yeshe

Dombie’s daughter Dawa with Dickir Che

Girls in tsokwas – in front, Rhanjer’s girls, Lhamo Tsering and Rinchenchet with eldest daughter, Gurra, center back

Tselo in the grassland

Dickier Che and Rinchenchet knitting

Sirmo’s son, Tsering Dhondup

Kate wearing the rings that Annay gave her

Our son, Gonbochab